Induction Hob Installation Costs vs Gas (UK 2025 Guide)

If your kitchen is the busiest room in the house (and let’s be honest, it is), choosing a hob isn’t just about aesthetics. It affects wiring, ventilation, safety sign-off, running costs and how you cook every day.

Induction has raced ahead on speed, control and safety. Gas remains loved for its visible flame and wok-friendly heat. This guide covers the installation reality in UK homes in 2025 – what it costs to fit each, the building implications you won’t hear in a showroom, and how to avoid the budget creep that sneaks in between template and toaster.

If you want a pure performance head-to-head, see our gas vs induction hobs comparison.

Real-world installation cost: induction vs gas (what homeowners actually pay)

Induction – A simple like-for-like swap, with the right circuit already in place, is often £150–£250 for a qualified electrician plus small materials. Where totals rise is the “first proper induction” scenario: you’re stepping up to a 32A circuit, you need an isolator within reach of the hob, and the consumer unit may need RCD/RCBO protection to satisfy current regs.

Add cable runs in finished walls, perhaps a short chase, and the number moves towards £300–£450. The hob itself spans everything from £250 for competent four-zone units to north of £1,000 for full-surface models with bridging and fancy pan detection.

Gas – A like-for-like swap by a Gas Safe engineer can be £120–£220 plus fittings. It climbs when the kitchen has moved on but the gas point hasn’t: new pipework routes, tight voids, or upsizing to meet appliance flow demand can push you into the £250–£400 zone before we even discuss ventilation.

It climbs if the gas point isn’t in the right place, if the pipe needs upsizing, or if access is tight – often £250–£400 before you even discuss ventilation. If your extractor is decorative but ineffective, budget for one that actually clears the air.

For both, the biggest factor is the wiring or pipework you inherit. We always check the plan against the budget early. If you want to get an estimate for your renovation, use our UK renovation cost calculator.

Electrical and gas implications (the part that decides your quote)

Induction needs a dedicated 32A radial, a local isolator, correct cable gauge and RCD/RCBO protection in most UK kitchens. Older boards often need attention before anyone sensible signs the job off. If you’ve ever seen a pristine new hob wired to a tired fuse box, you’ll understand our enthusiasm for doing this properly.

Gas needs correctly sized supply, safe joints, a working shut-off, and flame-failure devices where required. Both need careful planning if the hob is moving – routes are far easier to arrange before the worktops are in.

Worktop, layout and the “faff factor”

Worktops can add a surprising amount of scope creep. Re-cutting stone on site is dusty, noisy and not always feasible; templaters prefer to do it before fitting. Timber and laminate are easier to work with but still need careful sealing around the cut-out.

If you’re moving the hob to an island, you’ll need to decide where the isolator lives (for induction) or how the gas feed routes discreetly (for gas). Also, consider things like cooking zones, pan sizes and elbow room, so you don’t end up with a six-zone powerhouse jammed two inches from a tall larder.

Induction also needs ferromagnetic pans – if a magnet sticks to the base, you’re fine. Cast iron and most stainless steel work; aluminium and copper don’t unless they have an induction layer. If you stir-fry weekly in a round-bottom wok, you might prefer gas for the flame.

Running costs and safety (the quiet deal-breakers)

Induction is highly efficient — most of the energy goes into the pan, not the room. It also cools fast once you lift the pot, which is safer for households with small children and very curious cats. Gas works with any cookware but heats the air as much as the food, and it needs strong extraction. These points rarely show on the price tag, but they show up on your bills.

If your kitchen refresh is part of a bigger layout rethink, see our approach to kitchen renovations. We do custom cabinetry and partner with reputable appliance suppliers to bring your ideas to life.

Beams’ take: spec the way you cook, then make the numbers behave

We start with how you actually cook: do you sear or simmer, batch cook, or stir-fry? That decides the tech. Then we map the routes, confirm the board or gas run, and brief the worktop team so no one turns up guessing. Finally, we fix the price and sequence the trades so the hob isn’t waiting on an isolator or a duct that can’t fit past the joists. The result: a kitchen that works exactly as you pictured it.

FAQs: Induction vs Gas Hob Installation (UK 2025)

Do I need to upgrade my consumer unit for induction?
Not always, but many older boards need RCD/RCBO protection and a dedicated 32A circuit before a modern induction hob can be signed off. We’ll test and advise before any worktops are cut.For a pure performance overview, see this cost performance comparison.

Is a gas hob cheaper to install than induction?
A like-for-like gas swap can be cheaper on labour, but pipe reroutes and proper extraction can close the gap quickly. Induction is inexpensive if the circuit already exists; the cost comes in creating it. If you’re budgeting the whole refit, calculate your renovation cost

Can I put the hob on an island?
Yes – just plan services early. Induction needs a neat power route and isolator. Gas needs a discreet, compliant pipe run and serious extraction to catch steam and smoke. If you’re pairing the island with a feature sink, the style choice matters — read the one sink head-to-head here: undermount vs Belfast sinks guide

Will my current pans work on induction?
If a magnet sticks to the base, they’ll work. Cast iron and most stainless steel are fine; aluminium and copper usually aren’t unless they have an induction layer. If you’re moving to a new cooking tech and redesigning lighting too, here are some practical tips: kitchen ceiling lights guide

How does this fit into a bigger renovation timeline?
Electrics or gas first fix comes before worktops. Extraction ducting is best decided before plasterboard goes up. Appliances go in near the end. If you’re upgrading bathrooms at the same time and want a sense of install realities there, you can cross-read: electric shower installation costs guide