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How to measure a kitchen (properly) for a refit

Measuring a kitchen isn’t glamorous—but it’s essential. It’s the step that stops beautiful plans from clashing with real-world walls. Take an hour, do it right, and everything else—design, quote, install—gets easier. When you’re ready to renovate your kitchen, this is the exact process we use on live projects.

What do you actually need to measure? 

  • Room shell: every wall length and ceiling height (at more than one point)
  • Fixed points: doors, windows, boiler, consumer unit, radiators
  • Services: water, waste, gas, electrics, extractor route
  • Appliance envelopes: space and clearances for future appliances 

Finish with a scaled sketch, labelled photos, and a short note on tolerances (levels, out-of-square, scribe allowances).

Quick reference list

  • Measure each wall at least twice (low and worktop height)
  • Record ceiling height in three spots; note highest and lowest
  • Mark doors and windows with size, sill height, and swing direction
  • Map all services (water, gas, waste, electrics, ducts)
  • Add appliance envelopes (not just today’s appliances)
  • Note levels and squareness; allow scribes/fillers in corners.

What you’ll need (five simple things)

  • A 5–8 m tape (laser is a bonus)
  • Small spirit level
  • Masking tape
  • Pencil
  • A4 graph paper (or your phone notes)

Step 1: Measure the room shell (twice per wall)

Start in a corner and work clockwise. Measure each wall at floor level and again at ~900 mm (worktop height). If numbers differ, the wall bows - use the smaller figure for cabinet runs and note the variance. Measure ceiling height in three places (corners and centre). Record skirting depth and any boxing that steals depth.

Step 2: Doors, windows and how they move

Measure width and height (frame to frame). For windows, note sill height from the finished floor. Sketch door swings (left/right, in/out) and how far they project.

Add radiators: width, height, projection, and centre point.

Note any obstructions—newel posts, sloping ceilings, boiler flues, loft hatches.

Step 3: Map your services (future-proof this)

  • Cold/hot feeds and stopcock location
  • Waste pipes (diameter and well entry height).
  • Gas point and meter cupboard
  • Electrics: sockets, fused spurs, cooker/hob points, lighting feeds, and the consumer unit position
  • Ventilation route: where an extract duct can run to outside (short and straight is best).

Add a small symbol for each on your plan. Photograph each wall and number photos to match.

Step 4: Appliance envelopes (plan for what you want)

Don’t just measure for what you own now. Plan for upgrades:

  • Fridge: width families (600/700/900 mm), total height, door swing
  • Dishwasher: 450 mm or 600 mm, plus door clearance
  • Oven + microwave: housing height, vent space, door projection
  • Hob + extractor: hob width and ideal duct route to outside
  • Sink: bowl position, tap centre, waste direction

Dreaming of a peninsula or island? Note walkway clearances and possible power routes.

Step 5: Check squareness and level (this saves headaches)

Measure the diagonals of the room; if they’re unequal, the room isn’t square. Check floor level with your spirit level (or note where tiles/screed dip). Sight along the ceiling line - is there a sag? These notes justify filler panels and scribe margins later (and stop anyone promising millimetre-perfect stone across a rollercoaster).

Step 6: Draw a simple scaled plan (it doesn’t need to be pretty)

On graph paper, pick 1 square = 100 mm (or 1:20 / 1:25 if you like). Draw the room outline from your smallest wall dimensions. Add doors, windows, radiators and all the service points you mapped. Label walls A/B/C/D and number each photo to the wall label so everything cross-refers.

Step 7: Note tolerances, scribes and fillers (be kind to future installs)

Real rooms need wiggle room:

  • Scribe allowance at the ends of runs so panels can follow a wavy wall.
  • Service voids behind base units (often ~50–60 mm) so pipes and cables don’t fight drawers.
  • Filler panels beside tall housings so doors open freely.
  • Worktop overhang (often 20–30 mm) you’ll want to show on the plan.
    Add these as words on the drawing- don’t hide them. They’re part of why your plan will actually fit.

Step 8: Photograph everything (with labels in shot)

Use masking tape: write “Wall A – left corner” and stick it in shot. Take overviews and close-ups, especially of tricky areas. Number each image to match your drawing and notes.

Step 9: Planning a peninsula or island? Test the flow

Sketch it in. Add stools. Mark your walkways. Open every appliance on paper—oven, DW, fridge—and check for clashes. If it doesn’t work in a sketch, it won’t work in real life.

Step 10: Make a clean pack for your designer/fitter

Include:

  • Your scaled plan
  • Labelled photos
  • One-page dimensions list
  • A short site notes section (levels, quirks, etc.)

That’s all you need for a solid design and a clean, comparable quote. For more in-depth information on the renovation itself, check out our True Cost of a Kitchen Renovation 2025 Guide.



Checklist Example

  • Wall A length at floor / at 900 mm: ____ / ____

  • Wall B length at floor / at 900 mm: ____ / ____

  • Wall C length at floor / at 900 mm: ____ / ____

  • Wall D length at floor / at 900 mm: ____ / ____

  • Ceiling height (left / centre / right): ____ / ____ / ____

  • Door sizes + swing direction: ____________________

  • Window sizes + sill height: ______________________

  • Radiators (size / centre / projection): ___________

  • Services (water/gas/waste/electrics/duct route): ___

  • Consumer unit / stopcock location: _______________

  • Appliance envelopes (FF / DW / oven / hob / extractor / sink): ______

  • Notes on levels / out-of-square / scribes / fillers: __________

  • Photos labelled to match plan (A/B/C/D)

Frequently Asked Questions

What measurements do kitchen designers actually need?

Every wall length (measured twice at different heights), ceiling heights, door/window sizes and swings, radiator sizes/centres, the position of services (water, waste, gas, electrics) and the envelopes for the appliances you plan to use. Add notes on level and out-of-square.

How accurate do I need to be?

Within 5 mm is usually fine. A final template will be done on site, but solid early numbers help avoid redraws and surprises.

Do I measure to tiles or to the bare wall?

Measure to whatever will stay. If tiles are being removed, note it. Record boxing, skirting and anything that eats into usable space.

What if my walls aren’t square or the floor isn’t level?

They rarely are. Just flag it early so your plan can work with reality—not against it. Fitters love you for this.

The Beams way

We start with how you cook and live, then design storage, lighting and surfaces around real room dimensions—not the brochure version.

Clear drawings in. Clean installs out.
If you're ready for a joined-up plan, we’ll take your measurements and turn them into a kitchen that behaves as beautifully as it looks.